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Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer

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Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer

So I decided to upgrade to a larger printer. My Ender-2 is a fantastic little machine, but the print area is rather small. This is not a review and I simply sharing my experience. The printer was paid for by myself.

I wanted something, open source, direct drive for TPU printing and a large printing area.
- The Sidewinder X1 the Marlin firmware has been provided. (Although the firmware related to the touch screen has not)
- It has a direct drive extruder based on the e3D Titan Areo (So easier to buy replacement parts if needed)
- A large printing area of 300 x 300 x 400 mm

Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer.jpg
Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer.jpg
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Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer side view.jpg
Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer extras

These photos below are ones I took.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer packing
Really, the packaging was great, no complaints here! Also the postage was decently fast enough for China.

Really, the packaging was great, no complaints here! Also the postage was decently fast enough for China.

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Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer packaging
Good to have spares. However a part removal tool and a spare nozzle would also be great to include.

Good to have spares. However a part removal tool and a spare nozzle would also be great to include.

They included a genuine Australian plug, which was nice.

They included a genuine Australian plug, which was nice.

This 3D printed part that came with the machine was warped.

This 3D printed part that came with the machine was warped.

The nozzle showed a test print had been done on my printer. However, the nozzle was inserted incorrectly, allowing this mess.

The nozzle showed a test print had been done on my printer. However, the nozzle was inserted incorrectly, allowing this mess.

The part cooling duct that came with the machine wasn’t attached properly on mine, so I had to glue it back in place. I ended up designing my own version.

The part cooling duct that came with the machine wasn’t attached properly on mine, so I had to glue it back in place. I ended up designing my own version.

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A strain relief was one the first things needed to made.

Measuring for the correct hole size needed on the strain relief.

Measuring for the correct hole size needed on the strain relief.

Time to bend the strain relief bracket into shape.

Time to bend the strain relief bracket into shape.

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Fits nicely!

Fits nicely!

Safety first!

Safety first!


Not all the cables were pushed into their sockets correctly.

Not all the cables were pushed into their sockets correctly.

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A bolt was missing from the filament spool holder.

A bolt was missing from the filament spool holder.

The 90 degree bend on this sheet metal was done differently on each side, so it’s impossible to have them line up correctly. This means that spools of filament do not roll smoothly. I have asked the company for a replacement.

The 90 degree bend on this sheet metal was done differently on each side, so it’s impossible to have them line up correctly. This means that spools of filament do not roll smoothly. I have asked the company for a replacement.

First prints were rubbish.

First prints were rubbish.

I was eventually able to get printer prints, but they are not up to the standard of my Ender yet.

I was eventually able to get printer prints, but they are not up to the standard of my Ender yet.

This bolt was loose on mine, make sure you tighten it in the correct direction. It needs to be nice and firm so that filament is gripped by the direct drive extruder.

This bolt was loose on mine, make sure you tighten it in the correct direction. It needs to be nice and firm so that filament is gripped by the direct drive extruder.

I’m currently creating a new model for this. Fillets really don’t work well in the Z direction, given the overhangs.

I’m currently creating a new model for this. Fillets really don’t work well in the Z direction, given the overhangs.


To improve my prints, I had to adjust the X gantry in relation to the Z extrusions on the advice of their support. To make sure the rollers on each side of the X-carriage moved evenly and smoothly. Use a ruler to make sure everything is even and tighten the bolts on the bottom accordingly.

Prints improved after this. Until….


I had big issues with my Z-steppers motors not working correctly. Support was very helpful in trying to diagnose the issue. We only just worked it out tonight, as a faulty stepper driver. Supposedly this part of the machine is their own unique design. I have requested replacements.

To be honest, being asked to pull apart a brand new machine and go into the electronics was not the best feeling.

Tracy the support lady that I’ve been dealing with the most, has been supper helpful and pretty quick to respond to things. I added her to my wechat to make things easier. Facebook is blocked in china and they have to use a VPN, which is a bit of a pain for them.

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The hot glue on everything, is great to keep things wired in. However hot glue was on one of the stepper drivers, so I haven’t been able to remove it.

The hot glue on everything, is great to keep things wired in. However hot glue was on one of the stepper drivers, so I haven’t been able to remove it.

This little guy was the culprit, the cause of my Z axis movement issues!

This little guy was the culprit, the cause of my Z axis movement issues!

Here is my custom part cooling duct that I’m working on. This was printed on my Ender-2 (ssshhh…)

Here is my custom part cooling duct that I’m working on. This was printed on my Ender-2 (ssshhh…)

My part cooling duct is available on thingiverse. I was working on this before my Z axis movement decided to go full retard. Once I receive new stepper drivers to get my printer running again, I’ll continue to develop it. At the moment, it’s not blowing air in the exact centre and evenly from each side. Also, in my test, I think I had it a tiny bit to low, as the air is blown down on an angle.

The other thing I’ll change out is the volcano nozzles with a clean brand new one.


So once I have my slicer profiles all optimized, I’ll share some more prints.
The hope with this printer is being able to print full size garden related products and parts for my aquaponics.


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3D Printed Aquaponics Mods Plus More

This is the bell siphon I designed for my aquaponics set up. The breather tube on the side allows air to reach the top to help stop the siphon. You can adjust it up and down via the thread.

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This fitting for the hose is for cleaning out the breather tube on the bell siphon. An O-ring was added to make it seal with the hose fitting.


Simple U-Lock for IBC Aquaponics

Simple U-Lock for IBC Aquaponics

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This U-lock was designed to keep the plastic vertical/flush. This is for the float valve to work more reliably.


Here’s some extra things I added to and around my IBC Aquaponics set up.

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This solar air pump, is usefull for adding extra oxgen to the water for the fish. It’s also a great back up for if the pump breaks.


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This solar light is used on the ‘bug zapper"‘ mode and I drilled a hole in the plastic bottom. This way at night, insects will get zapped and fall into the water to be eaten by the fishes.


This float valve is used and connected to a smaller tank to keep the water from getting to low.
Very hot summers where I am located, so I get a decent amount of evaporation.


Outdoor solar light

Outdoor solar light

This great outdoor solar light as some much needed lighting around the garden at night. As long as you have sunny days, they are certainly bright enough.


Here are the .stl files for download. Let me know in the comments how you go and if you have any suggestions for improving the designs.



Let me know in the comments if you have any ideas for other things that could be 3D printed for Aquaponics.

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